https://www.kincony.com/forum/ Wed, 14 Oct 2026 04:16:08 +0000 MyBB https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9851 Thu, 01 Oct 2026 21:32:10 +0800 oCBot]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9851
I'm Ihor from Ukraine. For the past months we've been building oCBot — firmware and a cloud workspace that turn the KC868-A6 and KC868-A16 into process controllers for farms, homesteads and craft production. Our first use case is distilling; the same core runs cheesemaking, fermentation and greenhouses.

What it does on the board today:

• flashing from the browser in a couple of minutes, no toolchain;
  
• DS18B20 probes, analog inputs, RS485/Modbus devices, relays and PWM outputs;
  
• scenarios that drive a process stage by stage and only call the operator when a decision is needed;
  
• operator panels assembled from buttons and gauges without code, opened from a phone over Wi-Fi or remotely through our cloud (optional);
  
• several controllers working as one system, with a log of every run.
  

Something we learned on the A16 that may save someone a few evenings:

• After an OTA update or a reset (RST button, EN, esp_restart) the Ethernet link flaps and never gets an IP — only Wi-Fi comes up. A full power cycle brings Ethernet back. As far as we can tell from the schematic, the LAN8720 nRST is on RST_NET, which is not wired to any ESP32 GPIO, so firmware cannot reset the PHY itself. A software retry (esp_eth_stop/start) did not help on our boards. Our workaround: use the Wi-Fi address after OTA, power-cycle for LAN.
  
• There is no free DAC on the A16: GPIO25/26 are taken by the Ethernet RMII.
  

If I'm missing something about the PHY reset, I'd be glad to be corrected.

More details and the list of supported hardware: ocbot.the.in.ua/en/hardware

Questions and feedback welcome. If you run something similar on the A6/A16, I'd like to hear how you solved it.

  ocbot-1-cover.png (Size: 120.67 KB / Downloads: 52)

  ocbot-2-scenario-stages.png (Size: 90.37 KB / Downloads: 83)

  ocbot-3-heater-panel.png (Size: 93.01 KB / Downloads: 78)

  ocbot-4-kc868-a16-node.png (Size: 49.85 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]>
I'm Ihor from Ukraine. For the past months we've been building oCBot — firmware and a cloud workspace that turn the KC868-A6 and KC868-A16 into process controllers for farms, homesteads and craft production. Our first use case is distilling; the same core runs cheesemaking, fermentation and greenhouses.

What it does on the board today:

• flashing from the browser in a couple of minutes, no toolchain;
  
• DS18B20 probes, analog inputs, RS485/Modbus devices, relays and PWM outputs;
  
• scenarios that drive a process stage by stage and only call the operator when a decision is needed;
  
• operator panels assembled from buttons and gauges without code, opened from a phone over Wi-Fi or remotely through our cloud (optional);
  
• several controllers working as one system, with a log of every run.
  

Something we learned on the A16 that may save someone a few evenings:

• After an OTA update or a reset (RST button, EN, esp_restart) the Ethernet link flaps and never gets an IP — only Wi-Fi comes up. A full power cycle brings Ethernet back. As far as we can tell from the schematic, the LAN8720 nRST is on RST_NET, which is not wired to any ESP32 GPIO, so firmware cannot reset the PHY itself. A software retry (esp_eth_stop/start) did not help on our boards. Our workaround: use the Wi-Fi address after OTA, power-cycle for LAN.
  
• There is no free DAC on the A16: GPIO25/26 are taken by the Ethernet RMII.
  

If I'm missing something about the PHY reset, I'd be glad to be corrected.

More details and the list of supported hardware: ocbot.the.in.ua/en/hardware

Questions and feedback welcome. If you run something similar on the A6/A16, I'd like to hear how you solved it.

  ocbot-1-cover.png (Size: 120.67 KB / Downloads: 52)

  ocbot-2-scenario-stages.png (Size: 90.37 KB / Downloads: 83)

  ocbot-3-heater-panel.png (Size: 93.01 KB / Downloads: 78)

  ocbot-4-kc868-a16-node.png (Size: 49.85 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9798 Wed, 02 Sep 2026 17:08:45 +0800 viko]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9798 I recently discovered KinCony while researching home automation solutions, and I would really appreciate your advice before finalizing my installation.
I am currently completely rewiring my house from scratch, and I wanted to take the opportunity to integrate home automation from the beginning. Just two weeks ago, my knowledge of home automation was practically zero, so I have learned a lot in a very short time. I now want to make sure that the architecture I am planning makes sense before I install all the equipment.
My goal is to have a reliable, mainly wired and locally controlled installation, with Home Assistant as the central system.
? My overall installation
I plan to run Home Assistant on a mini PC, together with the other home automation software.
For the electrical installation, I will have a central electrical panel with separate circuits for the different parts of the house. I will bring the lighting circuits back to the electrical panel and use terminal blocks to keep the wiring organized.

For lighting control, I currently plan to use KinCony A16S modules for the physical inputs. I am considering using three A16S modules because I have around 40 buttons/switches to manage, as well as some additional sensors and equipment such as SHT30 sensors, flow meters and some controls related to the hot water tank.

The idea is that the wall switches will not directly control the 230 V lighting circuits. Instead, they will be connected to the low-voltage inputs of the A16S modules, while Home Assistant/KinCony will handle the logic and control of the outputs.
I believe I now have a good understanding of the wiring logic for this part. I still need to learn how to properly draw electrical diagrams so that I can show you the wiring in more detail.

For the power side, my basic principle would be something like:
10 A circuit breaker → KinCony relay → output → light

I am still working out exactly how I will wire the A16S modules and the relay/output side, so I would particularly appreciate the advice of people who have built a similar installation.
 ? Lighting
I have quite a lot of separate lighting circuits because I want to keep a high degree of flexibility in the installation.
The lighting circuits will all come back to the electrical panel, where switching will be handled by the KinCony system/relays rather than installing a home automation module behind every wall switch.
I would also like to have dimming capability, particularly in the living room and bedroom, on the 2 or 3 circuits concerned. I will of course use dimmable bulbs.
For this part, I am currently considering using SUNRICHER SR-ZG9042A-D Zigbee dimmers, installed directly in the electrical panel. I would therefore like your opinion on this solution, and whether there is a better KinCony solution or another simpler and more cost-effective architecture that you would recommend for dimming.

? Hot water tank
For the electric hot water tank, I plan to control it from the electrical panel through a suitable 25 A AC/DC contactor.

The idea is to use the standard Linky automatic control/tariff signal, with an additional layer of management through Home Assistant so that I can adapt the operating schedule to my needs, while keeping a conventional and safe electrical installation.

❄️Air conditioning / heating
I will also have several air-conditioning units as well as a pellet stove for heating.
I don't think these systems will necessarily be directly connected to the KinCony part. I will rather look for a suitable integration for each piece of equipment so that they can be integrated into Home Assistant.

? Roller shutters
The roller shutters will be installed by a professional company. I am simply planning to provide them with SONOFF MINI-ZBRBS-E switches/controllers so that they can be integrated from the beginning.

The goal is to use Zigbee for the shutter control while keeping a physical local control.
However, I would like your opinion on this approach, particularly regarding the proper management of the motor's up/down interlocking and safety, and what equipment you would recommend if I eventually decided not to use the Zigbee solution.

? Zigbee
I am also considering using an SMLIGHT SLZB-MR4U, connected via Ethernet/PoE, mainly to manage Zigbee devices over the network.
The idea is to use Zigbee for wireless devices where it makes sense, particularly roller shutters, dimmers and some sensors, while keeping the important parts of the installation wired.
I would mainly like to know how you would organize this part alongside the KinCony equipment, and whether you think there is a simpler or more cost-effective solution.

?️ Temperature / humidity sensors
I also plan to use several temperature and humidity sensors, including Modbus RTU sensors.
I am planning to use both the SHT30 Tiny and the standard versions. The Tiny models will be used discreetly in the rooms of the house where I want the sensor to be as unobtrusive as possible, while the standard versions will mainly be used in places such as the basement, workshop or technical areas, where appearance is less important.
I would therefore mainly like your opinion on these two models and whether you think they are suitable for these different applications.

? Flow meters and valves
I would also like to have the possibility of managing flow meters and motorized valves, for example to measure certain water flows and control valves from Home Assistant.
I am currently looking at the KinCony solutions available for flow meters and 12/24 V motorized valves, but I am not yet sure what the best architecture would be for this part.

? Network
Everything important will be connected via Ethernet.
I am planning a small network rack with a managed/PoE switch, a patch panel and the Home Assistant server.

The KinCony modules will also be connected to the network where appropriate, rather than having all the equipment physically installed next to the PC.
I am trying to keep the installation modular so that I can add sensors, cameras and other devices later without having to completely redesign the system.
❓ What I would like your opinion on
Everything is still being prepared, so I would really appreciate your corrections and suggestions.
In particular:

• Does this overall architecture seem coherent to you?
  
• Does using three A16S modules make sense for this installation and around 40 buttons, a few SHT30 sensors, flow meters and the control of some equipment such as the hot water tank?
  
• Is there a better KinCony module or architecture that you would recommend?
  
• Am I missing any important component or connection?
  
• Are there simpler and more cost-effective solutions that could achieve the same result?
  
• Are there any limitations of the A16S modules or the KinCony ecosystem that I should be aware of before committing to this installation?
  
• For roller shutters, what solution would you recommend to properly handle the up/down interlocking and safety if I don't use the Zigbee solution?
  
• Do you think the SHT30 Tiny and standard versions are suitable for these two different applications?
  
• What would you consider the best KinCony solution for flow meters and motorized valves?
  
• Is there anything I should plan for now, while the walls, cables and electrical panels are still accessible?
  

Is there anything you would do differently if you were starting this installation today?  ❤️

I am deliberately trying to plan everything before pulling the cables, so I would rather discover a better solution now than have to modify the installation later. I will of course continue researching the forum and KinCony documentation in parallel.

This is quite a long message, and I may have forgotten some details, so please feel free to ask if anything is unclear.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for any advice, corrections or suggestions! ?❤️
Thanks everyone! ?]]> I recently discovered KinCony while researching home automation solutions, and I would really appreciate your advice before finalizing my installation.
I am currently completely rewiring my house from scratch, and I wanted to take the opportunity to integrate home automation from the beginning. Just two weeks ago, my knowledge of home automation was practically zero, so I have learned a lot in a very short time. I now want to make sure that the architecture I am planning makes sense before I install all the equipment.
My goal is to have a reliable, mainly wired and locally controlled installation, with Home Assistant as the central system.
? My overall installation
I plan to run Home Assistant on a mini PC, together with the other home automation software.
For the electrical installation, I will have a central electrical panel with separate circuits for the different parts of the house. I will bring the lighting circuits back to the electrical panel and use terminal blocks to keep the wiring organized.

For lighting control, I currently plan to use KinCony A16S modules for the physical inputs. I am considering using three A16S modules because I have around 40 buttons/switches to manage, as well as some additional sensors and equipment such as SHT30 sensors, flow meters and some controls related to the hot water tank.

The idea is that the wall switches will not directly control the 230 V lighting circuits. Instead, they will be connected to the low-voltage inputs of the A16S modules, while Home Assistant/KinCony will handle the logic and control of the outputs.
I believe I now have a good understanding of the wiring logic for this part. I still need to learn how to properly draw electrical diagrams so that I can show you the wiring in more detail.

For the power side, my basic principle would be something like:
10 A circuit breaker → KinCony relay → output → light

I am still working out exactly how I will wire the A16S modules and the relay/output side, so I would particularly appreciate the advice of people who have built a similar installation.
 ? Lighting
I have quite a lot of separate lighting circuits because I want to keep a high degree of flexibility in the installation.
The lighting circuits will all come back to the electrical panel, where switching will be handled by the KinCony system/relays rather than installing a home automation module behind every wall switch.
I would also like to have dimming capability, particularly in the living room and bedroom, on the 2 or 3 circuits concerned. I will of course use dimmable bulbs.
For this part, I am currently considering using SUNRICHER SR-ZG9042A-D Zigbee dimmers, installed directly in the electrical panel. I would therefore like your opinion on this solution, and whether there is a better KinCony solution or another simpler and more cost-effective architecture that you would recommend for dimming.

? Hot water tank
For the electric hot water tank, I plan to control it from the electrical panel through a suitable 25 A AC/DC contactor.

The idea is to use the standard Linky automatic control/tariff signal, with an additional layer of management through Home Assistant so that I can adapt the operating schedule to my needs, while keeping a conventional and safe electrical installation.

❄️Air conditioning / heating
I will also have several air-conditioning units as well as a pellet stove for heating.
I don't think these systems will necessarily be directly connected to the KinCony part. I will rather look for a suitable integration for each piece of equipment so that they can be integrated into Home Assistant.

? Roller shutters
The roller shutters will be installed by a professional company. I am simply planning to provide them with SONOFF MINI-ZBRBS-E switches/controllers so that they can be integrated from the beginning.

The goal is to use Zigbee for the shutter control while keeping a physical local control.
However, I would like your opinion on this approach, particularly regarding the proper management of the motor's up/down interlocking and safety, and what equipment you would recommend if I eventually decided not to use the Zigbee solution.

? Zigbee
I am also considering using an SMLIGHT SLZB-MR4U, connected via Ethernet/PoE, mainly to manage Zigbee devices over the network.
The idea is to use Zigbee for wireless devices where it makes sense, particularly roller shutters, dimmers and some sensors, while keeping the important parts of the installation wired.
I would mainly like to know how you would organize this part alongside the KinCony equipment, and whether you think there is a simpler or more cost-effective solution.

?️ Temperature / humidity sensors
I also plan to use several temperature and humidity sensors, including Modbus RTU sensors.
I am planning to use both the SHT30 Tiny and the standard versions. The Tiny models will be used discreetly in the rooms of the house where I want the sensor to be as unobtrusive as possible, while the standard versions will mainly be used in places such as the basement, workshop or technical areas, where appearance is less important.
I would therefore mainly like your opinion on these two models and whether you think they are suitable for these different applications.

? Flow meters and valves
I would also like to have the possibility of managing flow meters and motorized valves, for example to measure certain water flows and control valves from Home Assistant.
I am currently looking at the KinCony solutions available for flow meters and 12/24 V motorized valves, but I am not yet sure what the best architecture would be for this part.

? Network
Everything important will be connected via Ethernet.
I am planning a small network rack with a managed/PoE switch, a patch panel and the Home Assistant server.

The KinCony modules will also be connected to the network where appropriate, rather than having all the equipment physically installed next to the PC.
I am trying to keep the installation modular so that I can add sensors, cameras and other devices later without having to completely redesign the system.
❓ What I would like your opinion on
Everything is still being prepared, so I would really appreciate your corrections and suggestions.
In particular:

• Does this overall architecture seem coherent to you?
  
• Does using three A16S modules make sense for this installation and around 40 buttons, a few SHT30 sensors, flow meters and the control of some equipment such as the hot water tank?
  
• Is there a better KinCony module or architecture that you would recommend?
  
• Am I missing any important component or connection?
  
• Are there simpler and more cost-effective solutions that could achieve the same result?
  
• Are there any limitations of the A16S modules or the KinCony ecosystem that I should be aware of before committing to this installation?
  
• For roller shutters, what solution would you recommend to properly handle the up/down interlocking and safety if I don't use the Zigbee solution?
  
• Do you think the SHT30 Tiny and standard versions are suitable for these two different applications?
  
• What would you consider the best KinCony solution for flow meters and motorized valves?
  
• Is there anything I should plan for now, while the walls, cables and electrical panels are still accessible?
  

Is there anything you would do differently if you were starting this installation today?  ❤️

I am deliberately trying to plan everything before pulling the cables, so I would rather discover a better solution now than have to modify the installation later. I will of course continue researching the forum and KinCony documentation in parallel.

This is quite a long message, and I may have forgotten some details, so please feel free to ask if anything is unclear.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for any advice, corrections or suggestions! ?❤️
Thanks everyone! ?]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9636 Fri, 17 Jul 2026 07:27:42 +0800 shinerblue]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9636
WHAT IT DOES
- Template cover (open/close/stop), each command mapped 1:1 to its own relay pulsing the T329's discrete OP / CL / STP trigger terminals to COM
- 4th relay bypasses the IR safety beam (FSW) for rainy days, with a 10-minute auto-off so you can't forget it
- Reads both travel-limit microswitches + a reed sensor on the gate panel, so the controller knows real position independent of the gate board
- Software auto-close timer (0-600s, adjustable live from HA, 0 = off)
- Control lock switch that blocks network-originated open/close but never STOP
- Monitors the gate board's supply voltage through a resistor divider on an analog input, with a live-tunable calibration multiplier (no reflash to recalibrate)
- Watches the IR transmitter's battery contact through the second analog input

SELF-MONITORING (v6 - the interesting part)
1. Travel-time telemetry: publishes "Last Open Time" / "Last Close Time" sensors on every completed limit-to-limit run. Trend these for chain wear / motor drift. (My gate: open 20-24s, close rock-steady at 21.1-21.3s.)
2. Command Fault sensor: fires if a relay pulse was sent but the gate board never acted on it (origin limit never released). Catches a dead trigger wire / loose COM bond within 10 seconds instead of "why is the gate still open?"
3. Travel Fault sensor: motion started (a limit released - from ANY source, RF remote or wall switch included) but no limit reached within 35s.
4. Limit Switch Fault: both limits active at once = impossible = wiring fault.
5. Chain Fault: close limit reached but the reed says the panel is not at the post = chain slipped/broke (5s debounce).

HARD-WON WIRING / BEHAVIOR NOTES
- Relay COM bond is mandatory: daisy-chain all four relay COMs and bond to the gate board's COM. With only R1 bonded, OPEN works but CLOSE/STOP are silently ignored - a maddening symptom.
- Read the limit switches on the microswitch's SPARE throw, not the gate board's limit sense terminals - many boards back-feed ~5V onto their own sense lines, which the opto reads as a false constant ON.
- The EL357 opto inputs are self-excited: wire passive dry contacts straight to INx + GND. No external voltage, no resistors. They keep reading even with the gate board powered off (as long as COM is bonded).
- Stop-before-reverse: the T329 (and likely similar STC-based boards) silently DISCARDS an OP/CL pulse while the motor is driving the other direction. Proven live: a close command mid-open does nothing - no reversal, no stop. The v6 cover actions pulse STP, wait 700ms, then pulse the direction whenever neither limit is active. If your gate "ignores" commands mid-travel, this is why.
- Don't tap the FSW line directly to an opto input to monitor the beam - on the T329 it idles at 7.3V, too high. Use a divider into an analog input instead (or a small relay).

SETUP
secrets.yaml needs: wifi_ssid, wifi_password, ap_password, api_key, ota_password, web_password. The two http_request buttons point at a Shelly Pro 4PM (Gen2 RPC) that master-switches the gate operator's mains - replace 192.168.1.50 with your Shelly's IP or delete those buttons if you don't have one. GPIO 2/15/5 are ESP32 strapping pins; ESPHome logs a boot warning - expected and harmless here.

Happy to answer questions about the wiring or the watchdog logic.

  kc868-a4-slide-gate-v6.txt (Size: 24.86 KB / Downloads: 155) ]]>
WHAT IT DOES
- Template cover (open/close/stop), each command mapped 1:1 to its own relay pulsing the T329's discrete OP / CL / STP trigger terminals to COM
- 4th relay bypasses the IR safety beam (FSW) for rainy days, with a 10-minute auto-off so you can't forget it
- Reads both travel-limit microswitches + a reed sensor on the gate panel, so the controller knows real position independent of the gate board
- Software auto-close timer (0-600s, adjustable live from HA, 0 = off)
- Control lock switch that blocks network-originated open/close but never STOP
- Monitors the gate board's supply voltage through a resistor divider on an analog input, with a live-tunable calibration multiplier (no reflash to recalibrate)
- Watches the IR transmitter's battery contact through the second analog input

SELF-MONITORING (v6 - the interesting part)
1. Travel-time telemetry: publishes "Last Open Time" / "Last Close Time" sensors on every completed limit-to-limit run. Trend these for chain wear / motor drift. (My gate: open 20-24s, close rock-steady at 21.1-21.3s.)
2. Command Fault sensor: fires if a relay pulse was sent but the gate board never acted on it (origin limit never released). Catches a dead trigger wire / loose COM bond within 10 seconds instead of "why is the gate still open?"
3. Travel Fault sensor: motion started (a limit released - from ANY source, RF remote or wall switch included) but no limit reached within 35s.
4. Limit Switch Fault: both limits active at once = impossible = wiring fault.
5. Chain Fault: close limit reached but the reed says the panel is not at the post = chain slipped/broke (5s debounce).

HARD-WON WIRING / BEHAVIOR NOTES
- Relay COM bond is mandatory: daisy-chain all four relay COMs and bond to the gate board's COM. With only R1 bonded, OPEN works but CLOSE/STOP are silently ignored - a maddening symptom.
- Read the limit switches on the microswitch's SPARE throw, not the gate board's limit sense terminals - many boards back-feed ~5V onto their own sense lines, which the opto reads as a false constant ON.
- The EL357 opto inputs are self-excited: wire passive dry contacts straight to INx + GND. No external voltage, no resistors. They keep reading even with the gate board powered off (as long as COM is bonded).
- Stop-before-reverse: the T329 (and likely similar STC-based boards) silently DISCARDS an OP/CL pulse while the motor is driving the other direction. Proven live: a close command mid-open does nothing - no reversal, no stop. The v6 cover actions pulse STP, wait 700ms, then pulse the direction whenever neither limit is active. If your gate "ignores" commands mid-travel, this is why.
- Don't tap the FSW line directly to an opto input to monitor the beam - on the T329 it idles at 7.3V, too high. Use a divider into an analog input instead (or a small relay).

SETUP
secrets.yaml needs: wifi_ssid, wifi_password, ap_password, api_key, ota_password, web_password. The two http_request buttons point at a Shelly Pro 4PM (Gen2 RPC) that master-switches the gate operator's mains - replace 192.168.1.50 with your Shelly's IP or delete those buttons if you don't have one. GPIO 2/15/5 are ESP32 strapping pins; ESPHome logs a boot warning - expected and harmless here.

Happy to answer questions about the wiring or the watchdog logic.

  kc868-a4-slide-gate-v6.txt (Size: 24.86 KB / Downloads: 155) ]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9595 Thu, 09 Jul 2026 15:51:33 +0800 audiotek10]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9595
I want to use this in a motorhome/RV and we have 24V LiFePO4 batteries. This can charge up to 28.8V. Is this safe with the B32M? How strict is the limit?]]>
I want to use this in a motorhome/RV and we have 24V LiFePO4 batteries. This can charge up to 28.8V. Is this safe with the B32M? How strict is the limit?]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9573 Sun, 05 Jul 2026 01:04:43 +0800 SchmidtGundersen]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9573 From what I understand about the BTS7960 IBT_2, is that it should also with with 3.3V

To clearfy I am using KC868-A6-V1.4SP

Thanks!]]> From what I understand about the BTS7960 IBT_2, is that it should also with with 3.3V

To clearfy I am using KC868-A6-V1.4SP

Thanks!]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9449 Tue, 09 Jun 2026 21:53:10 +0800 Jan_W]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9449 - lighting (including dimmable LEDs)
- blinds, multi device control: fans, pumps
- energy measurement, 
- temperature and humidity sensors
- and much more

3x B32M
1x DM16
1x G1
1x N20

]]> - lighting (including dimmable LEDs)
- blinds, multi device control: fans, pumps
- energy measurement, 
- temperature and humidity sensors
- and much more

3x B32M
1x DM16
1x G1
1x N20

]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9343 Wed, 20 May 2026 14:06:19 +0800 kriftoft@gmail.com]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9343

---

Problem with RS485 - AG8 send message but module with sim7600 not receive. Other function good, but TEM2=W2 dont work.Please help
http://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPgX...BpkWOr8yfn
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNF...AxY-YFgdf3
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNW...vnehA8visj]]>

---

Problem with RS485 - AG8 send message but module with sim7600 not receive. Other function good, but TEM2=W2 dont work.Please help
http://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPgX...BpkWOr8yfn
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNF...AxY-YFgdf3
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNW...vnehA8visj]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9335 Sun, 17 May 2026 07:24:38 +0800 igor_quintal]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9335
I have a smart home running with Home Assistant for quite some time. To automate all the lights, I created a central hub where all lights connect on my breaker panel (as the picture shows). I went with a very simple setup, using a Sonoff Basic flashed with Tasmota for each light switch. It works! But it is not great, and some relays are starting to fail. Also, buying new ones and flashing them with Tasmota is a little bit of a hassle. I wanted something better like a multiple channel relay. And that's when I recently saw KinCony!

It seems perfect to what I need. But there are so many board options available that I'm a little confused of which one to get. I want something that is reliable and safe, to be used in a DIN rail with up to 16 channels. Integration with Home Assistant is a must, but from what I saw, all boards support ESP Home. So what kind of board do you guys recommend? I saw that there were cheaper and more expensive ones, but I did not get the difference between them.

Thanks a lot!

]]>
I have a smart home running with Home Assistant for quite some time. To automate all the lights, I created a central hub where all lights connect on my breaker panel (as the picture shows). I went with a very simple setup, using a Sonoff Basic flashed with Tasmota for each light switch. It works! But it is not great, and some relays are starting to fail. Also, buying new ones and flashing them with Tasmota is a little bit of a hassle. I wanted something better like a multiple channel relay. And that's when I recently saw KinCony!

It seems perfect to what I need. But there are so many board options available that I'm a little confused of which one to get. I want something that is reliable and safe, to be used in a DIN rail with up to 16 channels. Integration with Home Assistant is a must, but from what I saw, all boards support ESP Home. So what kind of board do you guys recommend? I saw that there were cheaper and more expensive ones, but I did not get the difference between them.

Thanks a lot!

]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9137 Thu, 19 Mar 2026 02:21:49 +0800 torokzoli]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9137
I would like to ask for advice on which KinCony products would be best for controlling my water‑based underfloor heating system.

System layout:
Upstairs: 4 heating loops (manifold circuits) to be controlled separately.
Ground floor: 3 heating loops to be controlled separately.

In addition, I need to:
Switch the ground floor zone valve and the upstairs zone valve. 
Provide a boiler enable signal via a volt‑free (dry) contact.

The existing “dumb” system should remain functional in parallel at first:
There is one programmable thermostat for the upstairs and one for the ground floor.These currently control the boiler and the two main zone valves.

Hardware idea:

I already have a KC868‑A8, which I plan to use for the ground floor (3 loops + ground‑floor zone valve  + upstairs zone valve + boiler enable + some spare relays).

For the upstairs I am considering a KC868‑A6, which would handle the 4 loops and the upstairs zone valve. 

A small amount of wiring between the floors is possible.

Control requirements:
I would like the basic heating logic (room thermostats, loop valves, zone valves, boiler enable) to run locally on the KinCony devices themselves, without depending on any central controller (so that heating continues to work even if Home Assistant or the network is down).

At the same time, I would like to be able to override or adjust the behaviour from Home Assistant when desired (setpoints, manual on/off, etc.).

Questions:
Does the combination KC868‑A8 (ground floor) + KC868‑A6 (upstairs) make sense for this scenario, or would you recommend a different KinCony board combination for 7 loops + 2 zone valves + boiler enable?
What is the recommended way to implement the local control logic on these boards (KinCony original firmware rules, ESPHome, Tasmota, custom ESP32 code, etc.), given that:
It should work safely and autonomously.
It should still be easy to integrate with Home Assistant.

Could you recommend any wireless room thermostats that can communicate directly with KinCony hardware (for example via LoRa, nRF24L01, 433 MHz, or another protocol supported by KC868‑A series), so that I could replace the existing wired thermostats completely in the future?

Any wiring diagrams, example projects or firmware configurations for a similar 2‑floor underfloor heating system would be very helpful.

Thank you in advance for your support!]]>
I would like to ask for advice on which KinCony products would be best for controlling my water‑based underfloor heating system.

System layout:
Upstairs: 4 heating loops (manifold circuits) to be controlled separately.
Ground floor: 3 heating loops to be controlled separately.

In addition, I need to:
Switch the ground floor zone valve and the upstairs zone valve. 
Provide a boiler enable signal via a volt‑free (dry) contact.

The existing “dumb” system should remain functional in parallel at first:
There is one programmable thermostat for the upstairs and one for the ground floor.These currently control the boiler and the two main zone valves.

Hardware idea:

I already have a KC868‑A8, which I plan to use for the ground floor (3 loops + ground‑floor zone valve  + upstairs zone valve + boiler enable + some spare relays).

For the upstairs I am considering a KC868‑A6, which would handle the 4 loops and the upstairs zone valve. 

A small amount of wiring between the floors is possible.

Control requirements:
I would like the basic heating logic (room thermostats, loop valves, zone valves, boiler enable) to run locally on the KinCony devices themselves, without depending on any central controller (so that heating continues to work even if Home Assistant or the network is down).

At the same time, I would like to be able to override or adjust the behaviour from Home Assistant when desired (setpoints, manual on/off, etc.).

Questions:
Does the combination KC868‑A8 (ground floor) + KC868‑A6 (upstairs) make sense for this scenario, or would you recommend a different KinCony board combination for 7 loops + 2 zone valves + boiler enable?
What is the recommended way to implement the local control logic on these boards (KinCony original firmware rules, ESPHome, Tasmota, custom ESP32 code, etc.), given that:
It should work safely and autonomously.
It should still be easy to integrate with Home Assistant.

Could you recommend any wireless room thermostats that can communicate directly with KinCony hardware (for example via LoRa, nRF24L01, 433 MHz, or another protocol supported by KC868‑A series), so that I could replace the existing wired thermostats completely in the future?

Any wiring diagrams, example projects or firmware configurations for a similar 2‑floor underfloor heating system would be very helpful.

Thank you in advance for your support!]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9069 Sun, 22 Feb 2026 07:57:11 +0800 Serg!o]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9069
I have just received my T32M device and started assembly. I noticed that Output 1 is directly connected to DC+, turning on/off the output doesn't stop the circuit, it's always on.
I have recorded a short video to demo. Can you please advise if there is something special about output 1 or if there is a fault? All other outputs from 2 to 32 are ok, can turn them on and off.

T32M Output 1 problem

]]>
I have just received my T32M device and started assembly. I noticed that Output 1 is directly connected to DC+, turning on/off the output doesn't stop the circuit, it's always on.
I have recorded a short video to demo. Can you please advise if there is something special about output 1 or if there is a fault? All other outputs from 2 to 32 are ok, can turn them on and off.

T32M Output 1 problem

]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9060 Thu, 19 Feb 2026 18:18:44 +0800 PaPiTo]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9060
I came here looking for a practical (and cheap, haha) solution for my modest project.

I've had a TECNOALARM TP5 alarm system at home for years.

As long as it keeps working, I have no intention of changing it, since it meets my needs.

But I would like to make it a bit "smart."

I would simply like to:

1. Activate/Deactivate it from my mobile phone (I use SmartLife for many of the smart plugs I have installed at home).

2. Know if the alarm has been triggered by an alert on my mobile phone.

I have the alarm's installer manual, so I could provide more information if needed.

So, is this possible with any of your panels? Which board would you recommend for this?

I've attached some images from the manual in case they're helpful.

Thanks in advance!


  esquema_TP5_detalle.png (Size: 75.3 KB / Downloads: 536)

  esquema_TP5.png (Size: 53.07 KB / Downloads: 472) ]]>
I came here looking for a practical (and cheap, haha) solution for my modest project.

I've had a TECNOALARM TP5 alarm system at home for years.

As long as it keeps working, I have no intention of changing it, since it meets my needs.

But I would like to make it a bit "smart."

I would simply like to:

1. Activate/Deactivate it from my mobile phone (I use SmartLife for many of the smart plugs I have installed at home).

2. Know if the alarm has been triggered by an alert on my mobile phone.

I have the alarm's installer manual, so I could provide more information if needed.

So, is this possible with any of your panels? Which board would you recommend for this?

I've attached some images from the manual in case they're helpful.

Thanks in advance!


  esquema_TP5_detalle.png (Size: 75.3 KB / Downloads: 536)

  esquema_TP5.png (Size: 53.07 KB / Downloads: 472) ]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9033 Mon, 09 Feb 2026 12:31:38 +0800 Serg!o]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9033
I have an existing home automation setup and need your advice please.
I have multiple modules of relays as on the picture below, they are DPDT relays, 12v coil.
32 relays in total that I control with a device I bought online 5 years ago (Arduino with 8x4 (32) outputs), it listens to MQTT brocker on Home Assistant and basically turns the relays ON/OFF, which are controlling all my lights and a few ceiling fans/exhausts.
This device becomes unreliable and freezes from time to time so I need a replacement.
Can you please recommend a Kincony device so I can manage my existing relays.
Thank you.


]]>
I have an existing home automation setup and need your advice please.
I have multiple modules of relays as on the picture below, they are DPDT relays, 12v coil.
32 relays in total that I control with a device I bought online 5 years ago (Arduino with 8x4 (32) outputs), it listens to MQTT brocker on Home Assistant and basically turns the relays ON/OFF, which are controlling all my lights and a few ceiling fans/exhausts.
This device becomes unreliable and freezes from time to time so I need a replacement.
Can you please recommend a Kincony device so I can manage my existing relays.
Thank you.


]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9029 Sun, 08 Feb 2026 01:47:07 +0800 guycaluwaerts]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9029
Is it possible without using homeassistant to have an input on one board to control an output on the other board ?

With a long push on a button on input 1 from board KC868-A16, all outputs on KC868-a16 and KC868-AP has to go OFF.

Is this possible ? I cannot find an example in the description how to do this.]]>
Is it possible without using homeassistant to have an input on one board to control an output on the other board ?

With a long push on a button on input 1 from board KC868-A16, all outputs on KC868-a16 and KC868-AP has to go OFF.

Is this possible ? I cannot find an example in the description how to do this.]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8886 Wed, 07 Jan 2026 04:10:35 +0800 guycaluwaerts]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8886
Because I'm working with a MIFI 4G router I can only make a connection over WIFI.  Fix connection with ethernet cable is not possible.

I suppose the esp32 on the board has to be in AP-mode to fill in the correct SSID and password or my network. 
How can I put the board in AP mode ?]]>
Because I'm working with a MIFI 4G router I can only make a connection over WIFI.  Fix connection with ethernet cable is not possible.

I suppose the esp32 on the board has to be in AP-mode to fill in the correct SSID and password or my network. 
How can I put the board in AP mode ?]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8885 Wed, 07 Jan 2026 03:32:43 +0800 Maxsys249]]> https://www.kincony.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8885
1. Project Overview
Residential Smart Home Automation Project
This project involves the design and implementation of a comprehensive Smart Home Automation System for a newly constructed three-story luxury residential villa located in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. The objective is to provide the homeowner with an intelligent, secure, energy-efficient, and fully integrated home automation solution by combining lighting control, HVAC automation, security systems, and centralized smart home management.
The villa has been carefully designed to separate guest areas from the family's private living spaces. The Ground Floor is dedicated primarily to guest reception and entertainment, while the upper floors are reserved for family accommodation and private facilities.
Ground Floor Layout
The Ground Floor consists of the following areas:

• Male Drawing Room (Majlis) for receiving male guests.
  
• Female Drawing Room (Majlis) for receiving female guests.
  
• Central Reception Hall, providing access to all guest areas.
  
• Large Kitchen, designed to support family and guest catering requirements.
  
• Dining Room, located adjacent to the kitchen for convenient serving and dining.
  

External Areas
The exterior of the property includes a spacious private parking area and multiple controlled access points designed for both convenience and security.
The external access arrangement includes:

• Motorized Main Vehicle Gate providing secure access to the private car parking area.
  
• Main Pedestrian Entrance Gate serving as the formal entrance for guests and visitors.
  
• Secondary Pedestrian Access Door, intended for the daily entry and exit of family members and household staff without operating the main entrance gate.
  

This layout enables the Smart Home System to independently manage lighting, air conditioning, access control, surveillance, and security functions for each area while maintaining operational efficiency and enhancing the overall user experience.
The proposed automation system has been designed with scalability in mind, allowing future integration of additional smart devices and technologies without requiring major modifications to the existing infrastructure.]]>
1. Project Overview
Residential Smart Home Automation Project
This project involves the design and implementation of a comprehensive Smart Home Automation System for a newly constructed three-story luxury residential villa located in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. The objective is to provide the homeowner with an intelligent, secure, energy-efficient, and fully integrated home automation solution by combining lighting control, HVAC automation, security systems, and centralized smart home management.
The villa has been carefully designed to separate guest areas from the family's private living spaces. The Ground Floor is dedicated primarily to guest reception and entertainment, while the upper floors are reserved for family accommodation and private facilities.
Ground Floor Layout
The Ground Floor consists of the following areas:

• Male Drawing Room (Majlis) for receiving male guests.
  
• Female Drawing Room (Majlis) for receiving female guests.
  
• Central Reception Hall, providing access to all guest areas.
  
• Large Kitchen, designed to support family and guest catering requirements.
  
• Dining Room, located adjacent to the kitchen for convenient serving and dining.
  

External Areas
The exterior of the property includes a spacious private parking area and multiple controlled access points designed for both convenience and security.
The external access arrangement includes:

• Motorized Main Vehicle Gate providing secure access to the private car parking area.
  
• Main Pedestrian Entrance Gate serving as the formal entrance for guests and visitors.
  
• Secondary Pedestrian Access Door, intended for the daily entry and exit of family members and household staff without operating the main entrance gate.
  

This layout enables the Smart Home System to independently manage lighting, air conditioning, access control, surveillance, and security functions for each area while maintaining operational efficiency and enhancing the overall user experience.
The proposed automation system has been designed with scalability in mind, allowing future integration of additional smart devices and technologies without requiring major modifications to the existing infrastructure.]]>