Feedback: Product line dimensions vs. german cabinet standards and integration densit

[mkai]

1. KC868-A8v3 power supply both support DC12-24V. it use by 5v relay coin.

Thank you. Is the schematic available somewhere? I could not find it.

2. you said: "Summing up my requirements for the ideal cabinet 230V actor:"
what's "23V outputs: 10 / 16 A relays"? Do you want DC23v output terminal?

Sorry typo (edited in post above). I meant 230V relays capable of 10A (better: 16A - reason: Most common circuit breakers in germany are rated 16A. So I would have to buy new 10A circuit breakers if I want to use 10A relays)

3. Could you consider replacing the "permanent switches" with buttons and program a software-behaviour like "hold them for momentary-override" or "double click for permanent on/off"?   

--> Now the digital input ports use by wall switch buttons. manual control button use by "permanent switches", because of it can work without firmware or software, so that any time it can control relay on/off physically, because it control relay's coin directly.

Sorry I was not very clear on this. Especially old roller/shtter/blinds motors can be severely damages, if Up and Down are simultaneously enabled. If you have these override switches (which are presumably pull-resistors on the PCB direct attached to the relays), you could accidentally enable both at once.
If you apply up / down simultaneously on newer motors, the blind goes often into a "learning mode" for the most end stop calibration.

So I advocate against using these relay controllers for blinds to avoid  proofing Murphy's Law right

You could also use H32B Pro boards, and use them to drive external very slim relays, for instance the Finder 93.61.7.024 relay holder is only 5 mm wide, so you could easily use one rail for the board, and one rail for 32 external relays. Wiring would be probably cumbersome though.

interesting idea! But from a cost's perspective this would drive the costs per channel by 10€. Like you mentioned, no one wants to wire this