Yesterday, 10:04 AM
Oh, that’s interesting!
I have some RJ45 lines in the attic that aren't shown on the socket diagram: two for outdoor camera locations, one for a ceiling-mounted Wi-Fi access point, and potentially one for a PoE Zigbee/Thread dongle and/or the RTS module for the shutters. That network cabling is going to get used up fast. In any case, I’ve planned for two empty conduits (keeping 230V separate from the network cabling).
As for the ventilation system (VMC), I’d happily run an extra network cable; however, since I’ve planned for a basic "Hygro B" system with very simple operation, a manual override switch at the distribution board—likely a global one rather than individual vent control—that I could program via certain light switches seems sufficient. I haven't really planned anything elaborate for that part.
You have a dual-flow system, I imagine? That would certainly make it much more relevant in your case.
I’m currently looking into how to control my domestic hot water tank via Home Assistant while keeping the basic Linky control as a backup in case the smart home system fails. A changeover contactor is the solution I'm currently considering (like Schneider A9E15535). What do you think?
I have some RJ45 lines in the attic that aren't shown on the socket diagram: two for outdoor camera locations, one for a ceiling-mounted Wi-Fi access point, and potentially one for a PoE Zigbee/Thread dongle and/or the RTS module for the shutters. That network cabling is going to get used up fast. In any case, I’ve planned for two empty conduits (keeping 230V separate from the network cabling).
As for the ventilation system (VMC), I’d happily run an extra network cable; however, since I’ve planned for a basic "Hygro B" system with very simple operation, a manual override switch at the distribution board—likely a global one rather than individual vent control—that I could program via certain light switches seems sufficient. I haven't really planned anything elaborate for that part.
You have a dual-flow system, I imagine? That would certainly make it much more relevant in your case.
I’m currently looking into how to control my domestic hot water tank via Home Assistant while keeping the basic Linky control as a backup in case the smart home system fails. A changeover contactor is the solution I'm currently considering (like Schneider A9E15535). What do you think?