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⚡ 40 Buttons, 36 Lighting Circuits & Home Assistant — How Would You Build It?
#11
if you want control your Air conditioning by IR, need add KC868-AGv3 IR controller. that support control IR signal in home assistant.
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#12
Hello,

Using RTS shutters saves me from having to buy a third relay board.

I’ve also opted for a dedicated physical network setup with a router and switch. It’s pricier, but I’m tempted by the UniFi ecosystem, which seems to simplify everything significantly.

24V 240W power supply. I’ve planned for two LED strips; at 15W/m, the wattage adds up fast. My planned 120 W would be cutting it too close .If I want to add a bit more, it won't work. So, I’m thinking of using that one instead.

It’s 113.5 mm thick. For now, I’m going with an empty 800x600x250 (or 300) metal enclosure, so depth won’t be an issue. I plan to arrange the modules and such just like in some of the Kincony videos.

Thanks for sharing photos of your setup! What’s the model number for that huge enclosure? (I was considering a 6-row, 24-module unit, but it didn't look very comfortable to work with given the height of the modules).

My panels will be side-by-side.
- On the left wall: a 19-inch rack for the network, mini PC, ISP box, etc.
- On the opposite wall: a standard Schneider 4-row, 18-module panel for the 230V circuits.
- On the same wall, right next to it: the home automation enclosure. (I would have liked the 19-inch rack on the right, but I don't have the space).

I’ve started working on my diagrams. I took the opportunity to scale the components correctly and have placed a few items. It’s not final, but I think the sizing is looking good. (I probably won't have the budget for cable trunking; it's impossible to find at a decent price unless you buy a whole pallet). 
Regarding the diagrams, I honestly don’t know much about this. I just made something similar to what I’ve seen, adapting the connections to match the equipment I’m using.
I have 38 lighting circuits. There are still a few things I need to add, but it’s getting late! I’ll probably clean everything up and make it look nice at the end. Maybe! ?

I see new things every day, but I feel like I’m getting close to the finish line! (Well, regarding the shopping list for the hardware.
I’ve never touched anything related to electronics, like ESP32 or Home Assistant.)


Thank you, Regarding the AC, I still need to look into a few things and discuss it with the installers.


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#13
I would use a separate breaker and power block for the LEDs - in my view they should go on a 'lights' breakers, while the home automation should have its own separate breaker. I have a breaker for the home automation and its related network, another one for my own LAN network, and lights etc. on their own breakers.

Unifi is nice with regards to user interface, but once it's setup you will very rarely touch the home automation network again in the years to come. I would go with something cheap, durable, and as power-efficient as possible, and Unifi are not the best for that. I would use Unifi for the LAN though.

My electrical panel is a Hager of about 1900x560 mm. I don't have the reference, sorry. Have you considered using a single, much larger, electrical panel for the electricity and the home automation? I suppose it would simplify wiring and in the end use less floor space.

A 'detail': on the Kincony boards, you will need to distribute the power from one feed to several relays (all the lights on the same breaker for instance). You can use short wires, but it's much more convenient and tidy to use this kind of thing https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005004525861091.html. You can see the results in my pictures.

Also, do check the physical size of the Kincony boxes. In my setup they fit with just enough space between the rows to connect the wires.

As shipping delays are quite long, I bought an extra spare of all the 'critical' components, including the F32 box and additional relays.
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#14
Oh yes, that panel is huge—it’s really practical.

Under the NF C 15-100 standard (France), my highest circuit breaker has to be at 1.80m and the lowest at 90cm. I have an access hatch underneath, and in any case, I wouldn't want my home automation gear right down at floor level.

I have a small utility closet dedicated to this, so spreading out horizontally isn't an issue—except for the wiring, of course. I can find double-wide cabinets, but then I wouldn't have a cover for my main distribution board.
I’ll do some more research, but for now, I haven't found anything better than two enclosures side-by-side.

I saw the results you got with those connectors—I’d actually added them to my list without looking into them yet. Thanks for the link; is the spacing standard?

I’m going to use a second 24V power supplies to isolate the boards and keep a clean light circuit.

I’ve got relays on my list, but since I’m trying to keep the budget down, I hadn't planned for a backup board. Do you think the risk is significant?

Regarding UniFi: I plan to add cameras and other gear later on. I’ll also need to segment the network for a potential rental unit.

I’ll likely be tinkering with it regularly since the rest of the setup will unfortunately happen piecemeal. I’m afraid standard managed switches would drive me crazy—even though they’re clearly the best choice financially (UniFi costs roughly 1.5 to 2 times as much). That said, I certainly wouldn't mind using a small standard switch for my home automation boards and configuring it manually.

I could go on, but once again—a huge thank you!
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